The Nail School
Sculpting Acrylic Nails. a sculptured nail extension is where the nails are extended without applying tips. This achieved by building the acrylic in front of the free edge to the desired length on a foil from. When the acrylic is set, the form is removed and the nail shaped and finished off. This type of nail extension is very strong and feels light and natural on the fingers. There is no sticking on tips or blending in. The most common use for this method is for pink and white nails although the white on the free edge could be changed for any colour of acrylic. Sculptured pink and white's have always been thought to be done by the most skilful of nail technicians and avoided by the average technician.
Reverse application changes all that, this method takes away the difficulty in achieving the beautiful smile line between the white and pink that is the distinctive trade mark of pink & white nail extensions.
01. Natural nail prep. Sanitize yours and your clients hands with anti bacterial spray. This will help reduce the spread of infection.
02. Apply a small bead of cuticle softener to each cuticle and gently massage. Push back the cuticle gently using a cuticle pusher and scrap off any cuticle skin ( non living tissue ) attached to the nail plate. This is very important as product will lift off the nail if this is not done. Wipe off any excess softener with a lint free pad soaked in nail wipe. ( Isypropal ).
03. Using a 100/180 grit file file back the free edge to end of the fingers, also remove the natural shine from the nail plate following the contour of the nail.
04. Remove excess dust with a nail brush.
05. Using nail wipe pad and nail wipe liquid, press and rub the nail plate, sidewalls and under the free edge to remove any oil, moisture and contaminants. The nail will appear chalky white.
06. Apply acid free/ non burning primer very sparingly to the natural nail plate and allow to dry.
07. Applying Acrylic. The ratio of acrylic powder to monomer (acrylic liquid) is really important to doing extensions that will last. Submerge brush completely into the dappen dish of monomer, flatten the brush to saturate and exclude oxygen from the bristles.
08. Wipe brush along the sides of the dappen dish to release excess liquid. The more liquid you remove the smaller the bead of acrylic powder the liquid will attract to the brush. The size of the bead you need to pick up will depend on the size of the nail. Experience will guide you to how wet you leave the brush before dipping it into the powder.
09. Dip the tip of the brush into the pink powder and hold until the desired bead size has been achieved. The bead should be on one side of the brush only and be of medium wet mix, with no loose powder on the brush. Placing the bead on the nail it should leave the brush without pressing it to the nail. The bead should level about 25% and when it is pressed it should move where you want it without running all over or being unable to press. When dropping the bead onto the nail, lift your brush for a brief moment to allow the mix to polymerize, then press it from side to side to evenly distribute the product. The acrylic should be faded into the back of the nail and allow 1mm space from the cuticle and side walls. The acrylic needs to be thicker as it get nearer the centre of the nail and thinner towards the free edge.
10. Attach a extension foil under to free edge and secure on the finger, pinch together the lower edges of the foil to form the foil into a 'C' curve.
11. Apply a small bead of white powder onto the foil pushing it up and following the curve of the free edge which has been previously shaped. Keep the thickness of the white acrylic below the level of the pink acrylic on the natural nail. The thickness of the white must be even in colour. Extend the white acrylic along the foil to form the length and shape. Allow to set.
12. Using clear acrylic powder pick up a bead and place over the white and level off over the whole nail.
13. Allow to set, it is set when the extension clicks when tapped lightly with an orange stick.
14. Carefully remove the foil.
15. File and shape the free edge and sides of the extension.
16. Using a100 grit file or med bit drill shape and remove excess acrylic across the extension.
17. Finish off smoothing the nail extension with finer files and sanding blocks until a perfect finish is achieved.
18. Buff to a high shine with a two way nail buffer.
19. Condition the cuticles and skin surrounding the nail with oil.
Sculpting Course £190
Designer Sculping Course with E-file £245 (model not required)