The Nail School
Preparing the natual nail for product application is the most important part of overlays or nail extensions. This is where so much damage can be done, that will take a long time to grow out.
After client consultation and sanitising the natural nails are first shortened to the ends of the fingers for tip application or shaped and shortenend to the clients wishes when doing an overlay.
Next push back the cuticles gently with a cuticle pusher to reveal all of the nail plate. Cuticle is the fine layer of skin that pushes out over the nail plate at the back of the nail to protect the Lanula (the white half moon area next to the cuticle ) from damage. This is new nail growth and the nail plate moves forward it hardens off and changes colour to the colour of the natural nail plate.Damage to the Lanula will result in white flecks seen in the nail plate, nothing to do with the old wives tail of lack of Calcium.
Using a 180/240 grit file, take off the surface shine only off the nail plate surface, also carefully file off any skin attached to the nail plate.
Dust off the nails with a brush and wipe over with Acetone on a nail wipe pad. This removes any grease that has got onto the surface of the nail plate, plus it will dehydrate the nail plate.
If doing overlays, now is the time to prime the nails, brush on the primer over the whole of the natural nail, do not over prime, use the primer very sparingly.
When applying tips the priming is done after the tips have been attached and blended, then the primer is only applied to the natural nail that is showing.
Thinning, spliting and flaking of the natural nail, is caused by over buffing of the natural nail. Over blending of the tip. Nail extensions that are too long. As a guide the extension should never be longer than the natural nail plate. Also build up the thickness of product applied around the stress area which is at the point where the tip was blended, approx half way up the length of the natural nail.
Clients picking or biting extensions off really can cause damage to the natural nail.
If you get an air bubble under the tip when applying tips, you must remove the tip and re-apply a new tip.
An air bubble if left not only looks unsightly but the bacteria trapped inside the bubble will multiply with the warmth of the nail plate and turn green, then brown and then black, by which time it is a very unhealthy nail.
To remove a tip trim down the tip length as short as possible and put the finger into a dappen dish and fill up with pure acetone until it melts off. tWhen the tip is off clean up the nail plate removing carefully any debris with a file or white block, do not file anymore from the nail plate.
Glue on another tip.